St. John has no airport, two-thirds of it is national park, and most of what a first-time visitor needs is in one small town, Cruz Bay. Fly into St. Thomas (STT), take a taxi and a 15 to 20 minute ferry, base yourself where you can walk to dinner, and rent a Jeep only for the days you want it. This guide covers documents, getting there, where to stay, getting around, what to pack, the national park and the small habits that make a first trip easy.
Key takeaways
- U.S. citizens do not need a passport to visit St. John from the U.S. mainland, but bring government photo ID. A day trip to the British Virgin Islands does need a passport.
- Fly into St. Thomas (STT), take a taxi to Red Hook (30 to 40 minutes), then the passenger ferry to Cruz Bay (15 to 20 minutes, about every hour).
- Stay in Cruz Bay for the fewest logistics: the ferry, groceries, a beach and dinner are all a short walk.
- Two-thirds of St. John is Virgin Islands National Park. There is no park entrance fee. Trunk Bay charges $5 per person for ages 16 and up.
- Traffic drives on the left. You do not need a car every day if you stay in town.
Do you need a passport for St. John, USVI?
No, not if you are a U.S. citizen arriving from the U.S. mainland or Puerto Rico. The U.S. Virgin Islands are a U.S. territory, so the flight to St. Thomas and the ferry to St. John are domestic travel. Airlines still expect valid government-issued photo ID, and many travelers carry a passport anyway in case plans change.
- International visitors: a valid passport, plus any visa or travel authorization the United States requires for your nationality.
- Anyone planning a day trip to the British Virgin Islands: a passport. That crossing is international, even from St. John.
The currency is the U.S. dollar, and U.S. phone plans generally work as they do at home. Keep your ID in a day bag on the ferry, not in checked luggage.
How do you get to St. John?
Every visitor flies into Cyril E. King Airport (STT) on St. Thomas, takes a taxi to a ferry dock and crosses to Cruz Bay. Most travelers use Red Hook: a 30 to 40 minute taxi ride, then a 15 to 20 minute ferry that leaves about every hour. Crown Bay is only about 5 minutes from the airport, but its ferry runs just a few times a day.
Before you book flights, check the last ferry of the day and choose a flight that lands well ahead of it. If you miss the last boat, the realistic plan is a night on St. Thomas and the first ferry in the morning. The full route, step by step, is in our guide to getting from St. Thomas airport to Cruz Bay.
Where should a first-timer stay?
In Cruz Bay. The ferry lands there, and groceries, restaurants, shops and a beach are on foot. A hillside villa or Coral Bay gives you more seclusion, but you pay for it with a vehicle, a driving schedule and dark, winding roads after dinner. We compare the areas and the lodging types in where to stay in St. John.
Our own suites are in the walkable center of town. Dolphin Suites is about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock and 3 minutes from the beach, above Dolphin Market, and every suite has a full kitchen and a washer and dryer. Raintree Suites is steps from the beach. See all nine suites.
Do you need a Jeep on St. John?
Not every day. If you stay in Cruz Bay you can walk to the ferry, the beach, dinner and the Lind Point Trail. For the north shore beaches you have two options:
- Taxis. Open-air safari taxis wait near the ferry dock and run to Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay and Maho Bay all day. Agree the fare and the return plan with the driver before you board.
- A Jeep rental. Best for exploring on your own schedule or reaching the quieter east end. Rental companies are in Cruz Bay. Book early for December through April.
If you drive, remember three things. Traffic keeps to the left, while the steering wheel is also on the left. The roads are steep, narrow and full of blind curves, so use a low gear downhill and take corners slowly. And parking in town is tight, so leave the Jeep at your lodging in the evening and walk to dinner. Many guests rent for a day or two and go car-free the rest of the week. See Cruz Bay without a car for what is reachable on foot.
What should you pack for St. John?
St. John beaches are natural, with no boardwalks and few shops at the shoreline, so what you carry is what you have.
- Reef-safe sunscreen. The U.S. Virgin Islands ban sunscreens containing oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene. Buy a mineral sunscreen before you fly and bring a sun shirt so you need less of it. The Caribbean sun is stronger than most visitors expect.
- Water shoes and sandals. Some beach entries are rocky.
- A dry bag. One bag keeps your phone, ID and towel dry on the ferry and the beach.
- Insect repellent. The CDC advises travelers to the U.S. Virgin Islands to prevent mosquito bites, because dengue is spread that way (CDC Travelers' Health). Use it at dusk and on trails.
- A reusable water bottle and a small cooler bag. Food inside the park is limited.
- Small bills. Taxis and small stands are easiest with cash, so carry $5s, $10s and $20s.
- Fewer clothes than you think. If your suite has a washer and dryer, a week fits in one soft bag.
Keep a beach bag packed by the door with sunscreen, towels, water and sunglasses. It sounds small, and it is the habit that gets you to one more beach before sunset.
How does the national park affect your plans?
Two-thirds of St. John is Virgin Islands National Park, according to the National Park Service, which is why the island has no large resort strips and why the beaches look the way they do. There is no entrance fee for the park and no fee for driving its roads. Trunk Bay is the exception: it charges $5 per person for ages 16 and up from sunrise to sunset, paid by card through the Recreation.gov app, and has a 225-yard underwater snorkeling trail, restrooms, showers and a snack bar, with facilities open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and no lifeguards on duty (Recreation.gov). Download the app in Cruz Bay first, because cell service is limited in parts of the park.
The park visitor center is a short walk from the ferry dock in Cruz Bay and is open Monday to Thursday 8:15 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. and Friday 8:15 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Stop in on your first morning for trail and beach conditions. Go to the best-known beaches early or late in the day, when the water is calm and the crowds are thin, and keep the middle of the day for lunch and shade.
Small habits that make the week easier
- Book your first two or three dinners before you arrive. Restaurants are small, and sunset tables and weekend nights fill first.
- Download offline maps. Signal drops outside Cruz Bay.
- Shop for groceries on arrival day. Selection on a small island is narrower than at home, so bring any snacks your children insist on.
- Pick two or three beaches a day at most. One main beach, one backup and room for a stop you did not plan.
- Leave buffer time going home. Work backwards from your flight: ferry, taxi, check-in and security. Most travelers leave Cruz Bay at least three hours before departure.
Check availability for your dates, or read our Plan Your Visit guide next.
Frequently asked questions
Do U.S. citizens need a passport for St. John?
No. St. John is part of the U.S. Virgin Islands, a U.S. territory, so travel from the mainland is domestic. Bring government-issued photo ID. You do need a passport for a day trip to the British Virgin Islands.
Is there an airport on St. John?
No. You fly into St. Thomas (STT), take a taxi to the Red Hook or Crown Bay ferry dock and cross to Cruz Bay by passenger ferry. Allow about an hour from the airport curb to the Cruz Bay dock, plus the wait for the next boat.
Can you visit St. John without renting a car?
Yes, if you stay in Cruz Bay. The ferry, a beach, restaurants and shops are on foot, the Lind Point Trail leads to Honeymoon Beach, and taxis run to the north shore beaches all day.
Is there a fee to enter Virgin Islands National Park?
No entrance pass is required and there is no fee for driving park roads. Trunk Bay charges $5 per person for ages 16 and up.
What side of the road do you drive on in St. John?
The left, in vehicles with the steering wheel on the left. Roads are steep and winding, so drive slowly and use a low gear on descents.
Sources
Where to stay in Cruz Bay
DGMI Properties manages two places to stay in the heart of Cruz Bay, both about a 5-minute walk from the ferry dock. Dolphin Suites has eight one-bedroom suites with full kitchens that sleep 2 to 4 guests. Raintree Suites is a brand-new one-bedroom apartment for two, steps from the beach. Planning your trip? Our Plan Your Visit guide covers the ferry, groceries and what to pack.
